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"burnout-1" by kip jerger.
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LACo Veteran Recurrent and Ramblin' Surf-Karma Roaster, Kip Jerger, dishes on the recent swell favoring Southern Section surf breaks this past week and related topics, including "Kips Umbrella", the latter of which is discussed here for the very first time in print, er, online!
Per Kip:
Feb. 11, 2013: "The waves were going off at burnout by Hollywood Riviera tower TCO." Incidentally, the Hollywood Riviera tower right next to "Burnout" is where a great beach club my parents went to burnt down. Hence the name.
Feb. 11, 2013 at 9:28 pm:
"I surfed burnout at 8:00 am and it was 10-12 faces plus, spitting barrels. World class waves. Lifeguard Paul Hugoboom, making un-make-able tube rides, the Meistrell's were out, Tracy and Randy. Both ripping. Big wave surfer from Lunada Bay and incredible shaper, Angelo Ferrara, and his two kids, age 8 and girl 16, charging very challenging waves. Permanent Cliff Kuhn was seen ripping at 7:00 before his shift at El Segundo at 9:00. Both Paul and Cliff are what I would call our best watermen because of their incredible surfing for so many years. This is a good reason to still have surfing as a workout.
Captain Roger Murray said I should go surfing and then start work thereafter at Hollywopd Riviera tower at Torrance at 10:00. I was so stoked yet pretty beat up. It took me 5 times to get out because the waves were so big and my thick 7' 8" Kimo Green from Hawaii is a Tick board Brada! Hard to duck dive. I'm also getting older. So I have to work out a lot harder to surf at the level I do for an old dude.
Billy Robinson once said, "Never trust a lifeguard that does not surf." If you break that down what he is really saying is that you have to love being at the beach and have a free willingness to go into the water, whether that be with a spunge, surfboard, SUP, kayak, surf ski, or simply, swim or body surf. It's all under the same umbrella (x-ref: "Kip's Umbrella").
Help keep a cohesive work atmosphere going. Silently join me and a few others that are so teased by good surf, that it hurts.
When I was 17, I used to warn my girl friends not to get between me and my surf board. I had this love affair with the ocean when I was 5 years old, and Dick Orr was the lifeguard who took me out on my first Pete Peterson, cookie box paddle board at Venice beach before the pier was there in 1958, when I was 6. Now to be 60 on March 2nd.
All in all, this no surfing on duty has really made all of us surfers surf more... off duty, of course. Someday this rule will change, because having a cohesive atmosphere is the best thing one can have at work. Surfers that are lifeguards are at their best after surfing.
If you really love the Ocean like I do, you know that you will get wet anyway.
I do not represent or speak for the lifeguards in anyway or use this information for any gain from such said before organizations.
I speak from and for a spiritual reason only. If you choose to uplift my spirit, your understanding would be greatly appreciated.
Surfers For Life
One mans comment
Live Aloha !
Thank you for listening.
Stay Wet My Friend !
Kip
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And, last but not least:
"Small tube riding and big wave riding at Outside corner Uluwatu in May and September. From beginners, families and Pros to intermediate surfers. We have all cost levels and luxuries. Or you can go cheap in Bali. I can direct you at no charge. Lifeguard Discount Always."
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| "Kip at Uluwatu". Photo courtesy of Kip Jerger. |
(All Photos by and/or courtesy of Kip Jerger. Used here with permission.)
*** Thanks Kip! We really appreciate you sharing your aloha spirit, photos and commentary with your lifeguard colleagues.
10-4
Until next time.....
"County Recurrent" News
http://CountyRecurrent.blogspot.com
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| "2nd St. Hermosa", Feb. 15, 2013. Photo by Kip Jerger. |
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